Azzedine Alaïa and Africa

The exhibition explores the influence of Africa on the work of Azzedine Alaïa, tracing references to the continent throughout his career. Born in Tunis, Alaïa maintained a strong connection with North African culture and incorporated elements of its architecture, clothing and visual traditions into his designs.

The exhibition examines the use of white, black and sand-coloured tones, as well as references to moucharabiehs, traditional North African garments and masks. These influences can be seen in collections from the 1980s and 1990s, including the Spring/Summer collections of 1988, 1989 and 1990, which feature raffia, cords and extensive embroidery with shells and cowrie shells.

Egyptian culture also informed Alaïa’s work, particularly his exploration of the forms and imagery associated with mummies. This research led to his bandage dresses, first created in 1985, which demonstrate his approach to cut and construction.

The exhibition also includes paintings by Kris Ruhs and, on the first floor, photographs by Peter Beard documenting the Maasai region. In 1996, Alaïa travelled there with the photographer.