Kol

At Kol there is no lime, avocado or coriander. Santiago Lastra, the Mexican chef who ran Noma's pop-up in Tulum before moving to London, cooks Mexican food almost entirely with British produce. He looks for local equivalents of what the country cannot grow: rhubarb and gooseberry bring acidity to a scallop ceviche, and sea buckthorn does the work of citrus. Only the corn for the tortillas, chocolate and native chillies are imported. The langoustine taco with smoked chilli and sea buckthorn has stayed on the tasting menu since the restaurant opened in Marylebone in late 2020, while the rest of the menu follows the seasons and wild food. The dining room is built around a central open kitchen, with low leather booths and warm, sepia tones. The last part of the meal moves downstairs to the Mezcaleria, whose collection of agave spirits is among the finest in the UK. The wine list leans towards lesser-known producers from Central and Eastern Europe.