Huîtrerie Régis

In a spruce little room with white tablecloths and hanging lamps, the 14-seat Régis oyster bar concentrates on one sole product: oysters from the Marennes-Oléron, a world-famous cultivation area. You can choose between top class strains, rare strains, farmed strains that are enriched for four months in lightly salinated beds, and the very popular Belon oysters (€59 a dozen, though prices start at €25 a dozen). There’s lots of fresh bread and butter, the wines are well-chosen, and there’s a cheese of the day and desserts for the hungry. Régis doesn’t take reservations, but if you leave your telephone number they’ll call you when there’s a free table.