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Sestiere Itinerary #3 Dorsoduro

Here is the third of the Sestiere Itineraries curated by My Art Guide for the Venice Biennale and Bea Vita – the Venetian good life – this time we are accompanying you along a tour of Dorsoduro, renowned as the Art District of Venice.

The abundance of acclaimed museums, galleries, and art spaces in Dorsoduro means you will encounter some well-known stops, but you will also discover a profusion of hidden gems, temporary exhibitions, pavilions, and collateral events along the way.

These routes, designed by our editorial staff, ensure you experience the best of contemporary art in Venice without missing a selection of bars and restaurants where you can refuel with delicious wine and Venetian delights.

The Dorsoduro itinerary begins at Fondazione Angelo Masieri, the new Venetian home of Negropontes’ Galerie [1]. Palazzina Masieri on Venice’s Grand Canal has a rich history of ambitious projects and renovations. Completed by Valeriano Pastor and Carlo Scarpa in 1983, the Palazzina reopened to the public in March 2024. The current exhibition, “Armonia Metis”, showcases a mosaic of styles, materials, and themes.

A short walk will take you to Adriatico Mar [2], a wine bar with low ceilings and exposed beams that create a cosy atmosphere, ideal for diving into the modern interpretation of Adriatic food and wine culture, from Greece to Puglia to Venice.

Continue your journey passing through Campo San Pantalon until you reach Capsule Venice [3]. The gallery’s new location presents four exhibitions, accompanied by a programme of events, site-specific projects, and cultural activities curated by independent curator Manuela Lietti, engaging the versatile indoor and outdoor spaces of the venue throughout the whole year.

Next, make your way to Palazzo Canal at Rio Terà Canal, hosting the Nigeria Pavilion [4]. Titled “Nigeria Imaginary”, the exhibition presents Nigeria from two perspectives, highlighting both the positive moments that have characterised the country’s history and the idea of a future Nigeria where its contradictions and problems ultimately find resolution.

A few steps away is Ca’ Rezzonico, which will host the exhibition “Leaps, gaps and overlapping diagrams” [5] by Loris Cecchini from September. The 18th century museum, with its grand rooms and historic ambiance, provides a contrasting backdrop for Cecchini‘s artworks, characterised by a modular design inspired by nature and science. The power of technology combined with modularity has opened up new operating spaces towards achieving an ancient goal, as expressed in Cecchini’s own words: “Finally trying to break the Euclidean box in sculpture”.

After taking in the art, it might be time for a break – a few steps further you will find Osteria dei Pugni [7]. Here you can savour local flavours with a selection of cicchetti and an extensive wine list.

Once refreshed, walk a few steps along the same fondamenta and visit Palazzetto Tito, which hosts Guglielmo Castelli’s exhibition “Improving Songs for Anxious Children” [6], curated by Milovan Farronato. Drawing from a children’s book published at the turn of the twentieth century the artist display a new series of paintings, maquettes, textiles, and kinetic sculptures examining the thin boundary between fragility and violence. The historical setting of the Palazzetto enhances the contemporary pieces, creating a unique juxtaposition that enriches the overall viewing experience.

Now you could take some time to stop at the picturesque Antica Locanda Montin [8], where you can enjoy a blend of traditional and modern Venetian cuisine. The restaurant’s charming atmosphere makes it an ideal spot for a leisurely lunch or dinner, whether you are sitting in the vine-adorned porch or inside, where you can dine surrounded by historical paintings and knickknacks.

At this point, you will be five minutes from the next stop. The route will be quite linear from here on. In this itinerary, we highlight some of the city’s most renowned exhibition spaces, along with hidden exhibitions and galleries. Keep your eyes wide open so you don’t miss small exhibition spaces on the way that might pique your curiosity. Furthermore, many of these exhibitions are dense and time consuming, almost demanding; choose which ones to focus on with more attention and calm, and which ones to perhaps save for another day.

It’s now time for the Gallerie dell’Accademia [9], currently featuring the exhibitions “Willem de Kooning: L’Italia” and “Elective Affinities” in collaboration with Casa dei Tre Oci – Berggruen Institute, previously mentioned in our Sestiere Itinerary #2 Giudecca and San Giorgio.

Next, head to Palazzo Contarini Polignac to visit “From Ukraine: Dare to Dream” [10]. The Collateral Event weaves a tapestry of stories including 22 artists and collectives. Departing from Ukrainian lands and their history of forced migration, the exhibition echoes subdued voices that become songs of resistance and resilience.

Nearby, visit Palazzo Cini, hosting Martha Jungwirth’s “Heart of Darkness” [11] exhibition. The intimate setting of the palazzo allows for a close-up view of Jungwirth’s compositions, poised between abstraction and figuration, between the unconscious and the intentional, unbound and free, committed only to their own truth.

After looking out over the north side of the Grand Canal and taking a small break on the benches of Campo San Vio, around which you will find various exhibitions and galleries open to the public, head to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection [12]. This year, coinciding with the Biennale, the Venetian home of the great collector will host first the exhibition Jean Cocteau “The Juggler’s Revenge” and then, from September, Marina Apollonio “Beyond the Circle”.

Continue your tour at Marignana Arte [13]. The gallery’s and the project’s programmes explore various expressions of contemporary artistic research, paying attention both to the proposals of new generations and to the promotion of artists already established in the international arena. Currently on show are Maurizio Pellegrin and Verónica Vázquez.

A visit to Punta della Dogana [14] of the Pinault Collection is essential. The current exhibition “Liminal”, created by Pierre Huyghe in collaboration with curator Anne Stenne, presents major new creations alongside works from the last ten years.

Prepare now for a walk that circumnavigates the tip of the sestiere and brings you back to the shore of the Giudecca Canal. Alternatively, if you are exhausted from the sun, cut through the inner streets, passing again by the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Regardless of which route you take, you will arrive at the Fondazione Emilio e Annabianca Vedova to see Eduard Angeli’s exhibition “Silentium” [15].

Some doors further on, Magazzini del Sale hosts “The Rooted Nomad” [16], the first immersive exhibition examining the life and work of one of India’s most important and influential artists, M.F. Husain.

Continue to Sala Tiziano at the Centro Culturale Don Orione Artigianelli, where the Bulgaria Pavilion [17] is located. The immersive exhibition – titled “The Neighbours”- stages untold stories by a series of “domestic foreigners” who faced persecution, imprisonment without trial, and endured forced labour camps for reasons ranging from political beliefs to physical appearance.

Just a few more steps ahead and you will find Palazzo Cavanis showcasing Ewa Juszkiewicz‘s exhibition “Locks with Leaves and Swelling Buds” [18] curated by Guillermo Solana. The exhibition presents ten years of the artist’s research which is based on portraits of women by European artists, especially those from the 18th and 19th centuries. By covering the face of historical portraits, Juszkiewicz challenges the very essence of this genre, destroying the portrait as such.

Now turn onto Fondamenta Nani to head back towards the interior of the sestiere and visit Ex Farmacia Solveni, a peculiar and fascinating exhibition space for the Collateral Event “Passengers in Transit” [19], hosted and supported by 193 Gallery.

End your day at the historical Schiavi Antica Enoteca [20] in front of the Squero di San Trovaso, have one last glass of wine and some cicchetti served the Venetian way – the perfect atmosphere to unwind and enjoy the sunset lights.

If you are still not tired or just want to add some stops to our itinerary, don’t forget to download My Art Guide Venice’s App: the comprehensive collection of all the national pavilions, collateral events and the best concurrent exhibitions at the 60th International Art Exhibition – La Biennale di Venezia.